I received Mrs. X's actual sloper via snail mail yesterday. Today I will re-visit the McCall's pattern she chose and see how close I came to altering it to fit her.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Projects in Process: April 5 - 11, 2009
I did it! Andrea's dress is finished except for the hand finishing. Talked to her on the phone and it sounds like she's happy - photos on her will be in two weeks when she comes home for Russian Easter on April 19 (one week after regular Easter).
Kulich and Pascha recipes will be here before. I'm a big advocate of ethnic cooking! And my husband the Russian says I cook better ethnic food than his mother, which for this Irish mama is praise indeed.
What I'd like to accomplish this week:
Butterick 5030 for Andrea.
I should be able to finish this today - all I need to do is sew the bodice lining and insert it.
BWOF 01-2008-125 for me
It's the blouse pattern I altered for the two posts on using a sloper. It's cut out and fused - I'm hoping to finish it this week.
BWOF 01-2009-110 - one for me and one for Andrea. In matching fabric, too! We're too old to go for the mother/daughter look, but the first one I sewed didn't really fit me right. So she tried it on, and with a little taking in, it'll fit her. The fabric was FREE! from the BABES, and I scored yards and yards of it. It's a mystery poly knit.
Hers is done except for taking in the side seam and re-doing the hem; it's mending really, not sewing. Mine needs the sleeves sewn in and the hem.
I'll probably do these after I finish the dress, while the machines are still threaded with black, even though I have less enthusiasm for them.
Actually, looking these over, I realized that ALL the fabric I'm using was free. Am I cheap or what? The poly silky for the dress and the striped cotton for the blouse came from a good friend who is clearing out her house to prep for selling it. Definitely better me than the landfill! And any BABES who see this, there's a ton more that I'm saving for you guys, next time we meet.
Kulich and Pascha recipes will be here before. I'm a big advocate of ethnic cooking! And my husband the Russian says I cook better ethnic food than his mother, which for this Irish mama is praise indeed.
What I'd like to accomplish this week:
Butterick 5030 for Andrea.
BWOF 01-2008-125 for me
BWOF 01-2009-110 - one for me and one for Andrea. In matching fabric, too! We're too old to go for the mother/daughter look, but the first one I sewed didn't really fit me right. So she tried it on, and with a little taking in, it'll fit her. The fabric was FREE! from the BABES, and I scored yards and yards of it. It's a mystery poly knit.
I'll probably do these after I finish the dress, while the machines are still threaded with black, even though I have less enthusiasm for them.
Actually, looking these over, I realized that ALL the fabric I'm using was free. Am I cheap or what? The poly silky for the dress and the striped cotton for the blouse came from a good friend who is clearing out her house to prep for selling it. Definitely better me than the landfill! And any BABES who see this, there's a ton more that I'm saving for you guys, next time we meet.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Fitting Mrs. X
In the last two posts I talked about my sloper and how I use it to address my own particular fitting problems. But after an e-mail conversation, I learned that the PatternReview member who initially contacted me - let's call her Mrs. X - has quite different fitting challenges.
She is trying to alter McCall's 5138, which is an excellent choice for a first pattern to alter to match a sloper. The dart control closely matches that of a sloper: the pattern has both bust and waist darts on the front, and waist darts on the back.
Per her e-mail, Mrs. X faces the following challenges:
I don't have a copy of Mrs. X's sloper - I've asked her to send me one via snail mail - as she doesn't have a digital camera or ability to upload pictures. But I'm going to take a stab at the alterations nonetheless. I'll send Mrs. X a link via e-mail so she can take a look and evaluate if these alterations make any sense.
You can click on the pictures to get a bigger version - just use the browser "back" button to return.
Mrs. X had a germane question - do you start with one size and then alter to match your sloper - or do you start by tracing the appropriate size at each level and alter from there?
And the answer is I'm not the person to answer that question. I'm self-taught, so I simply found it less confusing to use one consistent size, and then develop rules that I could use for every pattern. So I start with size 12, and have an algorithm that makes a size 12 match my sloper. At some point I really should compare my altered pattern to the original to see if it would be any easier to trace out different sizes.
Here's how I would alter for Mrs. X's forward neck & shoulder. For this alteration I'm following the advice in Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach by Liechty, Pottberg & Rasband. It's described as variation #37 on pages 216-217 in my copy.
Next up: narrow shoulders. I found the alteration in Liechty confusing, so instead I'll do what I always do, which mostly does not affect the shape of the armhole.
Here's the marked slash lines.

One line runs perpendicular to the grain from the center back to where the shoulder meets the top of the armhole. In the seam allowance, slash to but not through where the shoulder meets the top of the armhole, creating a hinge.
Another line, at about midpoint of the shoulder, runs through the seam allowance to meet the first line. If the pattern had a back shoulder dart, it would run through the center of the dart.
And the third line is placed parallel to the grain from the point where the neck meets the shoulder to the first line. Again, slash to, but not through the seam allowance to create a hinge where the neck meets the shoulder.
Here I've spread to gain extra length in the center back and along the back of the shoulder, which should cover the rounded upper back and shoulder.
Things to note:
Now, the issue I haven't addressed is the asymmetry between the left & right sides at hip level - because I really do need the actual sloper to evaluate how best to address this. I know it entails separate pattern pieces for the two sides, both front and back, and a single fabric layer to lay out the pattern pieces for cutting.
I hope Mrs. X finds this post useful. I actually really enjoyed working through this exercise - I LOVE pattern puzzles!
She is trying to alter McCall's 5138, which is an excellent choice for a first pattern to alter to match a sloper. The dart control closely matches that of a sloper: the pattern has both bust and waist darts on the front, and waist darts on the back.
Per her e-mail, Mrs. X faces the following challenges:
- forward neck and shoulders
- very narrow shoulders
- rounded back & shoulders
- low bust
- tummy & one hip lower, with a tilted back, due to an injury
I don't have a copy of Mrs. X's sloper - I've asked her to send me one via snail mail - as she doesn't have a digital camera or ability to upload pictures. But I'm going to take a stab at the alterations nonetheless. I'll send Mrs. X a link via e-mail so she can take a look and evaluate if these alterations make any sense.
You can click on the pictures to get a bigger version - just use the browser "back" button to return.
Mrs. X had a germane question - do you start with one size and then alter to match your sloper - or do you start by tracing the appropriate size at each level and alter from there?
And the answer is I'm not the person to answer that question. I'm self-taught, so I simply found it less confusing to use one consistent size, and then develop rules that I could use for every pattern. So I start with size 12, and have an algorithm that makes a size 12 match my sloper. At some point I really should compare my altered pattern to the original to see if it would be any easier to trace out different sizes.
Here's how I would alter for Mrs. X's forward neck & shoulder. For this alteration I'm following the advice in Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach by Liechty, Pottberg & Rasband. It's described as variation #37 on pages 216-217 in my copy.
Next up: narrow shoulders. I found the alteration in Liechty confusing, so instead I'll do what I always do, which mostly does not affect the shape of the armhole.
Here's the marked slash lines.
One line runs perpendicular to the grain from the center back to where the shoulder meets the top of the armhole. In the seam allowance, slash to but not through where the shoulder meets the top of the armhole, creating a hinge.
Another line, at about midpoint of the shoulder, runs through the seam allowance to meet the first line. If the pattern had a back shoulder dart, it would run through the center of the dart.
And the third line is placed parallel to the grain from the point where the neck meets the shoulder to the first line. Again, slash to, but not through the seam allowance to create a hinge where the neck meets the shoulder.
Here I've spread to gain extra length in the center back and along the back of the shoulder, which should cover the rounded upper back and shoulder.
Things to note:
- I've keep the center back parallel to the grain, so the pattern should still be able to be cut on a fold.
- The hinge at the point where the shoulder meets the top of the armhole overlaps.
- The line at shoulder midpoint, the one that would be through the dart, opens up.
- And the line from the neck point overlaps, while its corresponding hinge overlaps.
- The shoulder is still a straight line and does not need to be trued.
Here's the marked slash lines making a box around the side dart and including the pattern's marked bust point. | |
And here the whole shebang is moved down. Very quick and easy. |
I hope Mrs. X finds this post useful. I actually really enjoyed working through this exercise - I LOVE pattern puzzles!
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
How I Use My Sloper to Alter Patterns - 2 Back
Most experts on pattern alteration recommend altering the back first, but I always alter the front first. Why? Because it's harder for me. I find altering the back way easier, so I save it for my reward after finishing the front.
Thursday, in part 3, I'll discuss some more general issues involved in comparing slopers to patterns. Why not tomorrow, my loyal readers cry? Because tomorrow I'm going to the Moraga Library with my mother in law to hear a lecture on Faberge, Tiffany and Lalique, related to the new exhibit at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco. I've married into a good Russian family, and talks on Faberge are not to be ignored.
Thursday, in part 3, I'll discuss some more general issues involved in comparing slopers to patterns. Why not tomorrow, my loyal readers cry? Because tomorrow I'm going to the Moraga Library with my mother in law to hear a lecture on Faberge, Tiffany and Lalique, related to the new exhibit at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco. I've married into a good Russian family, and talks on Faberge are not to be ignored.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
How I Use My Sloper to Alter Patterns - 1 Front
A member of PatternReview asked me to explain how I use my sloper to alter patterns. I can't 100% vouch for my method, as I'm totally self taught and not an accredited expert, but it certainly works for me.
I'll start by explaining some terminology. Many sewists have drafted a moulage, which is a very basic top with side and waist darts that has absolutely no wearing ease at all. It fits like a second skin, and in fact is what I used to cover my adjusted dress form. A sloper is also a very basic top, but it has minimal wearing ease added. If you sewed it in real fabric, it would be wearable, though pretty boring. It has no style details. Some people also refer to a sloper as a block, but to my mind that is incorrect. To me, a block is a basic pattern that has some style details. For example, I drafted an armhole princess seam top, a shoulder princess seam top, and a basic shirt with collar, using my sloper as a starting point - these are my blocks. If I'm altering a shoulder princess pattern, I'll compare it to my shoulder princess block.
To begin the process of comparing a commercially published pattern to a sloper, here's what you need to have on hand:
Note for the next few pictures I have matched up the center front and waist of the pattern to the sloper. Remember, the center front of this pattern is NOT on piece 1, it is actually on the button placket. Something to keep in mind when altering - determine where the actual center front is located.
I'm about halfway through my process - although I have to tell you, I rarely go to this level of detail any more. Once I figured out my "usual" alterations, which took about five tops going through this process, I didn't need to go to this level of detail anymore. I pretty much just do my standard alterations - narrow shoulder, petite armhole, add a bit to the side seams - and if it's a really different pattern in terms of dart control I'll sew a quick & dirty muslin.
Part 2, the Back, will be tomorrow.
I'll start by explaining some terminology. Many sewists have drafted a moulage, which is a very basic top with side and waist darts that has absolutely no wearing ease at all. It fits like a second skin, and in fact is what I used to cover my adjusted dress form. A sloper is also a very basic top, but it has minimal wearing ease added. If you sewed it in real fabric, it would be wearable, though pretty boring. It has no style details. Some people also refer to a sloper as a block, but to my mind that is incorrect. To me, a block is a basic pattern that has some style details. For example, I drafted an armhole princess seam top, a shoulder princess seam top, and a basic shirt with collar, using my sloper as a starting point - these are my blocks. If I'm altering a shoulder princess pattern, I'll compare it to my shoulder princess block.
To begin the process of comparing a commercially published pattern to a sloper, here's what you need to have on hand:
- a clean traced copy of your sloper, front and back
- a copy of the pattern, with the stitching lines marked. Most patterns do not show the stitching line, only the cutting line, so you need to refer to the instructions to determine the seam allowances and then draw them in
- extra tissue or tracing paper
- a ruler. I prefer to use a 24" clear quilter's ruler.
- a curved dressmaker's ruler
- pencils or pens. I usually use a .5 mm drafting pencil, but for the examples below I used colored Sharpies. I prefer the drafting pencil since I can erase and it also doesn't smear, but the colors definitely show up better in the photos.
- Either removable tape or pins. My cutting mat is hard, so I use the tape, but if you have a cardboard mat, pins work better.
Note for the next few pictures I have matched up the center front and waist of the pattern to the sloper. Remember, the center front of this pattern is NOT on piece 1, it is actually on the button placket. Something to keep in mind when altering - determine where the actual center front is located.
I'm about halfway through my process - although I have to tell you, I rarely go to this level of detail any more. Once I figured out my "usual" alterations, which took about five tops going through this process, I didn't need to go to this level of detail anymore. I pretty much just do my standard alterations - narrow shoulder, petite armhole, add a bit to the side seams - and if it's a really different pattern in terms of dart control I'll sew a quick & dirty muslin.
Part 2, the Back, will be tomorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)